Once upon a time, I thought I was the only sommelier in the world who didn’t like riesling, the main Alsace wine variety.
Riesling, one of the six “noble” grapes, is originally from Germany. It is an aromatic white grape, known for its floral, citrus and stonefruitA hoity-toity way of saying peach or apricot. qualities, with more mineral notes when grown in cool climates and more fruity and petrol-y notes when grown in warmer climates.
Yup, petrol.
And that’s the characteristic of riesling I just can’t get past. When present in a wine, it’s literally all I can smell. I find it overpowering.
Some critics would argue that it is people who have less experience with wine who find this component off-putting, but I would argue that I have quite a bit of wine tasting experience and that my keen sense of smell is the culprit.
All this to say that when a sample opportunity came up from Vins d’Alsace as part of their Millésimes Alsace Digitasting, I had to stop and think about it. Alsace is known for riesling – did I really want to taste through a bunch of wines I wouldn’t enjoy?
In the end, my FOMO won out and I ordered the samples. When they arrived on my doorstep, I was super impressed with the presentation – and admittedly a wee bit excited to try them all.
Alsace: Quick Facts
Geography
Alsace is located between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east, and borders Germany and Switzerland.
History
The region has a long, rich history. Like most wine regions in France, its viticulture dates back to Roman times. It was part of the Holy Roman Empire until the 17th century. Since then, it has been passed back and forth several times between the countries now known as France and Germany. For example, Alsace was annexed to the German Empire after its victory in the Franco-Prussian war in 1871. However, after Germany was defeated in WWI, Alsace was ceded to France under the Treaty of Versailles. Of course, given the region’s proximity to Germany, it was one of the first areas occupied during WWII.
Given this bipolar history, it stands to reason that the region boasts a hybrid French/German culture. The Alsatian language, technically a German dialect, is obviously heavily influenced by French, with young people saying things like “ça gehts?”, a mix of the French and German expressions for “How are you?”. And just look at this fabulous architecture!
Alsace wine
Here are some quick facts on Alsace wines:
- Given its proximity to the Vosges Mountains and its higher latitude, Alsace is a cool-climate winemaking region.
- 90% of Alsace wine production is white wine.
- While Alsace may be best known for riesling, the grape with the highest production is actually pinot blanc.
- Alsace has 13 different types of soils, and a huge diversity in terroirTerroir is essentially the geographical, environmental and climatic elements of grape-growing (that allow the same grape grown in two different places to make two completely distinct wines). Here is a non-exhaustive... and microclimates, meaning that the same grape planted in two neighbouring vineyards can taste completely different.
- Alsace is the region with the highest percentage of certified organic and biodynamic grape growers in Europe, with 15% of Alsace wine producers officially certified.
- Alsace has three appellations of origin: AOC"controlled designation of origin" — a certification granted to certain French wines (as well as other agricultural products) to indicate their place of origin, quality, style, as well as adherence... Alsace, AOC"controlled designation of origin" — a certification granted to certain French wines (as well as other agricultural products) to indicate their place of origin, quality, style, as well as adherence... Crémant d’Alsace, and its top quality level, AOC"controlled designation of origin" — a certification granted to certain French wines (as well as other agricultural products) to indicate their place of origin, quality, style, as well as adherence... Alsace Grand Cru. Sometimes the wine’s specific place of origin (called a “lieu-dit” in French) is indicated on the label as part of the appellation.
- Alsace has its own bottle, called a “flûte”. It is tall and slender and is generally made of green or brown glass.
- 26% of Alsace’s wine production is sparkling wine (Crémant).
- Grape varieties in Alsace include pinot blanc, riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot noir, sylvaner, pinot gris, muscat d’Alsace and even chardonnay (though it’s only allowed in the region’s traditional-method sparkling wines: Crémant d’Alsace).
Tasting my way through the wines of Alsace
Out of a whopping 40 Alsace wine samples tasted over the course of a couple of weeks, many stood out, and there were very few rieslings I didn’t enjoy. However, it would take me weeks or even months to gush about them all, so this post will focus on one producer in particular: Pierre Sparr et Successeurs.
Pierre Sparr et Successeurs
Once upon a time, Pierre Sparr put Alsace on the wine map for me. They made one of the only rieslings I could tolerate when I was starting out on my journey of wine discovery all those years ago.
This time around, Pierre Sparr helped rekindle my interest in riesling.
This is a producer that aims for consistency in flavour from year to year. To do this, they have partner grape growers all along Alsace’s “Route du Vin” (wine route), whose grapes show a different typicity based on their terroirTerroir is essentially the geographical, environmental and climatic elements of grape-growing (that allow the same grape grown in two different places to make two completely distinct wines). Here is a non-exhaustive... and that year’s particular climatological conditions. Every vintage, a different selection of these grapes are blended together to re-create Pierre Sparr’s well-known wines. Alexandra Boudrot, Pierre Sparr’s oenologist and cellar master, is responsible for helping these grape growers bring out the best expression of the terroirTerroir is essentially the geographical, environmental and climatic elements of grape-growing (that allow the same grape grown in two different places to make two completely distinct wines). Here is a non-exhaustive... while respecting the environment (all of Pierre Sparr’s producers are certified HVE, haute valeur environnementale, the French certification dedicated to protecting biodiversity). Rounding out the female winemaking team, Corinne Perez, Head Winemaker, upholds Pierre Sparr’s commitment to sustainability and quality, ensuring its consistency year after year.
This producer is perhaps best known for its sparkling wine. Their hugely popular white and rosé Crémant (sparkling) comes and goes in Vintages and the SAQ’s Cellier all year long.
By the way, remember that mix of French and German? This producer’s name is actually pronounced Shparr (the German way).
Now let’s taste some wine!
Pierre Sparr Riesling 2019 (sol calcaire) – AOC Alsace
This riesling made me feel warm and fuzzy with its aromas alone – it had this super comforting baked apple pie aroma, with baking spice, pear and hint of anise. On the palate it was super minerally, as the name would suggest (“calcaire” is limestone). This type of soil tends to heat up faster, producing grapes with rich fruity flavours, as opposed to citrusy ones. It was medium-weight, round in mouthfeel, and it had riesling’s characteristically zippy acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More, which make this particular grape variety very food-friendly. The flavours were a combination of green apple and pear, with a hint of white pepper, and a lemony finishThe finish is a descriptor of how long a wine’s flavour sticks around after it leaves your mouth. You often hear wine descriptions saying short, medium, or long/lingering finish, and....
Pierre Sparr 2019 Riesling (sol granitique) – AOC"controlled designation of origin" — a certification granted to certain French wines (as well as other agricultural products) to indicate their place of origin, quality, style, as well as adherence... Alsace
This riesling was grown in granite rather than limestone soil. This one was definitely more minerally and citrusy on the nose than the first, but on the palate it still had the amazing balance of weight and spicy acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More, with peach, red apple, minerality, orange blossom and baking spice flavours.
These two rieslings from Pierre Sparr were proof that I don’t hate riesling!
Sadly neither of these rieslings are available in Ontario, so let’s look at one Pierre Sparr offering that will be.
Gewürztraminer 2018 Mambourg – AOC Grand Cru d’Alsace
Gewürztraminer is another aromatic grape variety that flourishes in Alsace. This Grand Cru smells heavenly: lychee, spice, orange blossom, pear, peach and honey. It is off-dry, but perfectly balanced by acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More and spicy notes, giving this rich, round wine a taste of sugar and spice (and everything nice!) without being cloyingly sweet at all. Perfect pairing for sushi, stir-fry or duck paté.
Where to buy: Keep an eye out for Pierre Sparr’s gewürz in Vintages. Alternatively, get in touch with Profile Wine Group to order by the case.
To conclude, I’d like to thank François Fischer of Pierre Sparr et Successeurs for taking the time to chat with me, and I’d particularly like to thank the fine producers of Alsace for helping me remember that I do indeed like riesling! Stay tuned for more from Alsace!
This very belated post (please excuse the technical difficulties!!) is part of the Winophiles’ monthly exploration of different French wine regions. You can read the invitation post here. Be sure to check out the other Winophiles’ Alsace discoveries!
- All About the Wines of Alsace by Jennifer Martin at Vino Travels
- Alsace Wine and Cold Poached Salmon with Sauce Verte (Green Mayonnaise) by Terri Steffes at Our Good Life
- Alsace Wines’ Heart and Soul – Land Sustainability, Family Tradition and Food Compatibility by Pinny Tam at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
- Alsace Wines Shine with Summer’s Bounty Risotto by Jeff Burrows at Food Wine Click!
- Blending Innovation and Tradition with Wines of Alsace by Jill Barth at L’Occasion
- Butternut Squash Chickpea Curry with Wine from Alsace by David Crowley at Cooking Chat
- Domaines Schlumberger 2018 Pinot Blanc: A Delectable Grape Mutation + Criques de Pommes de Terre by Cam Mann at Culinary Adventures with Camilla
- Five Winemaking Women of Alsace by My Full Wine Glass
- Shrimp Louis Sandwiches paired with an Alsace Pinot Blanc by Wendy Klik at A Day in the Life on the Farm
- Summer Food Pairings with Alsace Wines by Jane Niemeyer at Always Ravenous
- Wines of Alsace Bring the Wow Every Time by What’s in that Bottle?
- Women of Alsace – Conversations with 4 Women on their Family Wineries in Alsace by Robin Renken at Crushed Grape Chronicles
- Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc with a Leek & Bacon Tart by Nicole Ruiz Hudson at Somm’s Table
- 3 Riesling from Alsace by Gwendolyn on Wine Predator
Very interesting! And now that I can drink wine again, I’m taking notes! :))
Félicitations!!
Merci!!! 🥰
Holy Moly! Look at all those little empty bottles! That’s quite a bit of tasting!
I’m so sad that you don’t like those petrol notes. I’m sure it makes it hard to pick up a bottle of Riesling from Alsace without tasting it first. I happen to love the aroma, but I understand how it can be overpowering, especially if you are a super smeller!
Everything in moderation, I say, even moderation itself 😉