Hanukah and Christmas are over, but there’s still one major holiday left: New Years! As per usual, we have no plans. But one thing is for certain: there will be bubbly. And it will likely be Ontario sparkling wine this New Year’s Eve, to continue supporting our local wineries. Maybe we’ll just drink bubbly all night long by the fire. It’ll be a stark contrast to last year, when we rang in the New Year barefoot, watching fireworks from the bow of a catamaran (not ours) in Grand Case, in St. Martin.
I suspect this year will be slightly more subdued.
Nonetheless, bubbly is always in order, so to continue with the theme of Ontario sparkling wines (check out Part 1 here), here are some sparkling recommendations to match your personal style!
13th Street Premier Cuvée – for the person who appreciates the finer things in life
This lovely méthode-traditionnelle sparkler is a dead ringer for Champagne.
Pale straw yellow in the glass. Bone dry on the palate (i.e. brut, in Champagne terms). After spending at least four years on the leesDead yeast cells! No seriously. After yeast has fermented a wine's natural sugars, it forms a sediment called the lees. Sometimes winemakers will leave the wine on its lees ("sur..., the main flavour component here is brioche, with a hint of green apple and pear. There’s also lots of lemon, and a tinge of almond with the slightly mineral edge of Niagara. The brilliant little bubbles go on forever.
It’s a stunning wine to serve with special-occasion dishes like oysters or lobster. Or just on its own because you’re fancy like that.
Where to buy: There are a few bottles left in Vintages but I’d recommend buying directly from the winery ($39.95).
If you are in the Niagara area, be sure to check out 13th Street’s art gallery and sculpture garden. They also have a restaurant and a bakery which boasts the best butter tarts in Canada. Butter tarts and amazing wine? Sign me up.
Shattered Glass – for the fashionista
This traditional-method sparkling definitely gets the prize for best dressed! Check out this awesome flapper outfit!
Notes: Medium straw yellow, with aromas of toasted almond, lemon, grapefruit, orange blossom, pear and minerality. It has a yummy creamy texture with solid bubble action – almost spicy! Food brings out more fruitiness (stone fruit).
Sidenote: As with most stylish things, practicality is an issue when it comes to pouring. The fringe makes it difficult to hang onto the bottle, and the dangly bits get in the way of the pour. However, the fashionista who wears 6-inch stilettos in the dead of winter doesn’t care about this. He/she will love this sparkling for the bottle alone.
Wondering what the name is all about? This signature product, made at Cave Spring in Niagara for the CANDICE&ALISON Events Group, is “inspired by the precise moment the first glass drops and shatters behind the doors of an exclusive event. For industry insiders, it’s the signal that an elegant celebration is about to transform into a much more playful and enigmatic night.”
Where to buy: This wine can be purchased directly online ($39.95). Shipping is free with the purchase of two or more bottles.
Rosehall Run Pét Nat 2019 – for the nature lover
I am loving the natural sparkling wines coming out of Prince Edward County! I made three different people try this one, and everyone liked it, despite it being quirky and experimental.
Pét nat is the affectionate short form for “pétillant naturel”, i.e. natural sparkling wine. It is made using the méthode ancestrale, which predates even the traditional methodColes notes version: how Champagne is made! The first fermentation happens in vats, then the wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle. This process was originally developed by monks... of Champagne.
Also known as the ancestral method (méthode ancestrale), instead of going through a second fermentationThe process by which yeasts convert the natural sugars in grapes to alcohol, thereby producing wine! in a bottle (as in champagne), the wine is bottled and sealed partway through its first fermentationThe process by which yeasts convert the natural sugars in grapes to alcohol, thereby producing wine!. Less gas is captured this way, there are fewer bubbles, and there is less pressure in the bottle. So there is no need for the reinforced bottle, heavy-duty cork, and wire cage used for Champagne/traditional method wines. Wines produced using the ancestral method are generally made in the same bottles used for still wine, and they are often sealed with a crown cap.
Pét nats are not to everyone’s taste. When they are sealed, they are effectively unfinished wine that the winemaker can’t control beyond that point. They are sometimes cloudy and sometimes have some sediment. Moreover, there are no rules in most places as to the grape varieties that can be used or the wine style. Some are fruity and others are funky, some are dry and others are slightly sweet.
ROD philliips, NUVO
Sounds interesting, right? You betcha.
This 2019 vintage is Rosehall Run’s first foray in Pét Nats. Prepare yourself for the unexpected (my notes start with “Whoa!”).
Tasting Notes
To begin with, the colour is a light raspberry red, almost like cranberry juice or strawberry/kiwi Snapple (my drink of choice in the 90s). It is also a bit cloudy, which isn’t something you usually see in traditional bubbly, where the leesDead yeast cells! No seriously. After yeast has fermented a wine's natural sugars, it forms a sediment called the lees. Sometimes winemakers will leave the wine on its lees ("sur... are removed before the bottle is sealed (disgorgement).
On the nose, the Rosehall Run pét nat smells like light fruit punch (with an emphasis on cherry) and a bit dough-y.
On the palate, it was not at ALL what I was expecting. To begin with, it was super dry, and not as fruity as the colour would have me believe. Never judge a book by its cover. The flavour was a mix of sour cherry and raspberry jolly rancher (without all the sugar), as well as earthy and floral, like rosewater or apple blossom. It reminded me a bit of raspberry ale (without the beer flavour).
In terms of texture, it’s not super effervescent, has moderate acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More, little tanninTannins help form a wine’s structure, but generally only in red wines. Tannins come from the grape’s stems, seeds and skins, and to a lesser extent from the wood in..., and is reminiscent of kombucha.
Winemaking
One of the great things about pét nat is that there aren’t strict winemaking rules to contend with (compared to Champagne, for example), so the winemakers can do pretty much whatever they want. That’s why Rosehall Run’s Dan Sullivan put together such a surprising mix of grapes for this pét nat: sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, pinot gris, gamay, riesling, pinot noir, muscat ottonel and tempranillo. At the end, a touch of sparkling chardonnay was thrown in for good measure. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: whoa. Who even knew we grew tempranillo in Ontario??
Pairing: At 10% ABV, this is an easy patio sipper, but would also pair well with fresh salads, grilled sausages or a ploughman’s lunch.
Where to buy: Available online from the winery ($32).
2021 Challenges
Pét nats are all the rage these days, so trying one should definitely be on your list of things to do in 2021. Also, they are a bit like snowflakes, where no two are alike, so if you don’t like the first one you try, don’t give up! You’re sure to come across one that suits your palate. Just be sure to set aside everything you ever thought you knew about wine and open your palate and your mind.
If you’re not feeling that adventurous, I challenge you to source some Ontario sparkling wines in the New Year.
Whatever your plans may be, I hope you’ll raise a glass of something special this New Year’s Eve. Let me know what you’re pouring in the comments below!
Happy New Year and happy wining!
*These wines were provided as samples. No other remuneration was provided. All opinions are my own.
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