The full spectrum of albariño – Rías Baixas, Part 2

After learning all about the Rías Baixas wine region in Galicia in Part 1, it’s time to hit the virtual road for some wine tastings and see what albariño is all about!

But before departing on any road trip, it’s important to look at a map to see where we’re going.

The road trip will take us to 3 of Rías Baixas’s 5 subregions.

We’ll begin our tour in Rías Baixas’s highest producing region, Val do Salnés, which is responsible for 63.8% of the region’s wine production. As you can see in the map above, this subregion is right on the ocean, so it stands to reason that this is the wettest region with the lowest elevation.

Granbazán Alabariño Etiqueta Ámbar 2019

Let’s start with my favourite of the bunch.

Granbazán is like many wineries in Rías Baixas, in that the vineyards are subdivided into many parcels as a result of the inheritance laws in the region. With this type of small-scale agriculture, 80 families work their own 1 to 1.5-acre parcels.

Tasting note: In the glass, the albariño grape’s thick skin is evident from the colour of the wine, which is a beautiful golden yellow. On the nose, there’s lots of green apple, minerality and lemon, with a bit of stone fruit as the wine warms up. As soon as it hits your mouth though – holy acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More!!! I love that mouth-watering zing, but I would recommend waiting a few minutes after you take this wine out of the fridge, since the palate’s perception of acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More diminishes as a wine warms up. This is not a light-bodied wine by any means, weighing in at 12.5% (so more medium-bodied). The flavours mimic the aromas: green apple, lemon, subtle peach and a bit of pineapple.

Pair with: Given the region’s proximity to the ocean, shellfishing is a HUGE industry here. This wine practically screams for OYSTERS, or any other fish or seafood dish.

Where to buy: Another albariño by the same producer was available at the SAQ but is now practically sold out (only 8 bottles left in the entire province!). It will be back in July, so keep an eye out. In Ontario, check Brix and Mortar for by-the-case options.

Fillaboa Single Vineyard Selecciòn Finca Monte Alto Albariño 2015

Next we move onto another subregion: Condado do Tea. This area is further inland, and is the warmest and driest of the winemaking subregions.

The wine we sample is from a single vineyard site: Finca Monte Alto. This 6-hectare site has a gentle slope and borders the Miño River, which separates the area from Portugal. The winemaker is Isabel Salgado. Fun fact: 80% of the winemakers in Rias Baixas are women.

By look and smell, this wine seems like a dead ringer for chardonnay. It’s a deep golden colour and smells like green apple, lemon, ripe banana, salinity and buttered toast. This is not your typical albariño. For one thing, it spent a year on its leesDead yeast cells! No seriously. After yeast has fermented a wine's natural sugars, it forms a sediment called the lees. Sometimes winemakers will leave the wine on its lees ("sur... More (native yeasts were used), which gives it a much rounder, more opulent mouthfeel than the previous albariño we tasted. Its 13.5% alcohol may also contribute to this oilier mouthfeel. The wine still has acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More but it seems more muted after 5 years. Interestingly, pairing this wine with food actually brings out the wine’s acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More on the palate, which tells me this is a wine made for food.

In terms of flavour, it’s more savoury than fruity – there’s a bit of lemony citrus, herbal notes, floral notes of honeysuckle, and earthiness. This is a lovely, complex wine.

Pair with: Italian dishes, fish, seafood, sushi, or smoked pork chops

Where to buy: Available in BC at the BCLC.

Valmiñor Davila O Rosal 2018

We end our road trip in the O Rosal subregion, home to terraced vineyards and salty wines influenced by the sea. This is where the Miño River spills out into the Atlantic Ocean.

The winemaker at Adegas Valmiñor is Cristina Mantilla, an organic chemist-turned-winemaker who is known for combining modern technology with traditional Rias Baixas winemaking. A true pioneer, she is about to release one of the first rosés in Galicia!

The Davila is a blend of albariño, loureiro (which adds a floral character) and treixadura.

Tasting note: This blend offers enticing aromas of yellow plum, white flower, overripe peach, canteloupe, herbs, butter and salinity. At 13%, it is medium bodiedA wine’s body refers to its weight on the palate. It’s generally directly correlated to alcohol content. Lighter bodied wines are generally lower alcohol, and heavier wines are higher in... More with a round mouthfeel (thanks to 2 months of leesDead yeast cells! No seriously. After yeast has fermented a wine's natural sugars, it forms a sediment called the lees. Sometimes winemakers will leave the wine on its lees ("sur... More aging for two of the three grapes) and medium+ acidityAcidity is an important part of a wine’s structure that prevents a wine from being “flabby”. It’s what gives you that tingling sensation on your tongue and makes you salivate.... More (thanks to the albariño). It tastes of peach, green apple, honeydew, and has a certain green/herbal note to it, and a salty finishThe finish is a descriptor of how long a wine’s flavour sticks around after it leaves your mouth. You often hear wine descriptions saying short, medium, or long/lingering finish, and... More.

Where to buy: A single-varietal albariño from Valmiñor was recently available at the SAQ (but now only 6 bottles are left across the province). Hopefully it returns soon!

Looking for more readily available options? Try these:

• Lolo Albariño Rías Baixas (available for around $15 at both the LCBO and SAQ)
• Paco & Lola Albariño (currently $2 off in Vintages for $18.95 and, surprisingly, cheaper at $18.40 regular price at the SAQ)

Have you tried any of these wines from Rías Baixas? What did you think of albariño? Leave your impressions in the comments below!

Happy wining!

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*Note: The wines above were provided as samples. No other compensation was provided. Opinions are entirely my own.