My love for Loire Valley sauvignon blanc is no secret. To the point where I took time during my vacation last year to help harvest it. I am a dedicated fan. So when I have an opportunity to learn about much-loved appellations like Sancerre from the Centre-Loire, it doesn’t take much to convince me.
About a month ago, I received an invitation to attend a masterclass and walkaround tasting in Montréal, featuring the wines of the Centre-Loire. I hemmed and hawed about it for a while, since that is now a three-hour drive away after my move last year. But in the end, the idea of tasting a wide range of wines from a region I love won me over.
So on April 1, armed with podcasts and a playlist entitled Songs to Sing in the Car, off I went on a road trip to Montréal.
Centre-Loire appellations
Most sauvignon blanc fans will have heard of Sancerre, or even Menetou-Salon. But what about Pouilly, Quincy, Reuilly or Coteaux du Giennois? Admittedly, even I hadn’t heard of that last one. But I was certainly willing to learn more about (and, most importantly, taste) them all!
The event started with a masterclass led by Michelle Bouffard, a well-known sommelier, wine educator, author and (fun fact!) classical trumpet player. She did an excellent job of presenting the Centre-Loire region, especially its mosaic of terroirs and unique soils (flint/silex clay, limestone, Kimmeridgian calcareous clay marl, and gravel and sand, depending on where you are).
I knew that sauvignon blanc was prevalent in these regions, but apparently it accounts for a whopping 80% of the plantings (!), with pinot noir a distant second with 15%.
Bouffard then introduced the panel of winemakers from different areas from the region. It was super interesting to hear them talk so passionately about their wines and their processes.
Organic grape-growing and climate change
Many of them farm organically or even biodynamically. However, when the topic of climate change came up, you could tell that this was something they were all battling. “You can’t even call it global warming anymore, it’s more climate dysregulation,” said Pauline of Domaine Pellé.
2024 was a particularly challenging growing season, especially for organic farmers, whose hands are somewhat tied in terms of possible interventions to protect the vines. Frost was an issue at bud break, and there was record rainfall with not enough sun throughout the season. Everyone knows that organic practices are better for the earth, but if it means losing an entire vintage due to mildew, “You start to ask yourself some big questions,” said Florian of Vignobles Berthier.
But it wasn’t all doom and gloom. The conclusion was that given its location and special soil types, cool-climate Centre-Loire is well positioned to survive climate change, compared to its warmer-climate counterparts to the south.
The wines
While the winemakers spoke about their wines, we tasted our way through four sauvignon blancs, all made in different soil types. Just like in Chinon, despite the vineyards not being very far apart, the wines can be quite distinct. For example, Sancerre sauvignon blanc is a perfect blend of fruit flavours, with mineral and citrus aromas, with lots of acidity upfront that softens to a rich, round palate. Just across the Loire is Pouilly-sur-Loire, whose sauv blancs often have hay and grapefruit on the nose, plus the telltale flint from the soil. Grown on the hillsides along the Loire slightly further north, the sbs of Coteaux de Giennois, one of the youngest appellations which obtained its AOC status in 1998, have lovely minerality and notes of quince and white flower. They have also become my new favourites (a title that changes from one minute to the next).
We were also able to taste two pinot noir wines. We don’t often see Loire Valley pinots here in Ontario, so it was great to have the opportunity to taste these light, red-cherry, wines with bright acidity and solid tannin backbone that are very cellar-worthy.
I won’t wax poetic about how good the wines I tasted were, because it would probably make you quite thirsty. Let’s just say that it was a darned shame I was getting right back in the car afterwards to drive home. Alas, between me and the spittoon, it was the spittoon that got to reap the benefits of this tasting. However, here are some that stood out.
Domaine Pellé
Morogues 2023 (AOC Menetou-Salon)
Domaine Pellé has been organically farmed for 18 years and is in the process of converting to biodynamics. Grown in Kimmeridgian marl, which has lots of mineral deposits from things like oyster shells through the ages, this sauvignon blanc is planted at one of the highest elevations in the region. It is vinified in stainless steel and aged for 10-12 months, preserving the grape’s natural freshness.
Nose: Shy at first, then slowly opens up to perfumey orange blossom, lemon and green apple.
Palate: Vibrant lemony acidity and green apple soften to red apple and pear as the wine warms up.
This wine is occasionally available at the SAQ, with bottles currently in stock, so be sure to look for it.
Vignobles Berthier
This organic, low-intervention winery produces wines under the Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux du Giennois AOCs. I loved them all, but here are my notes for the bottle on the right.
Terre de Silex 2023 (AOC Coteaux du Giennois)
This was quite possibly the very first Coteaux du Giennois sauvignon blanc I have ever tasted, and it set the bar high.
Nose: Super citrussy and hay, tropical fruit and salinity
Palate: Green apple, mineral, white peach and lemon. Uber refreshing, great acidity, perfect for oysters.
Speaking of oysters, I must take a moment to give a shout out to the wonderful catering provided by Chaud Devant. Their maritime-inspired dishes were delightful, especially the fresh shucked oysters. What a treat!
Plus these guys
Lastly, everything at this table can only be described as yummy.
Un gros merci à Demandre Communications and Vins du Centre-Loire for organizing this great event, and to Michelle Bouffard and the panelists (also from Domaine Cordaillat, Domaine Gérard Millet and Domaine des Chasseignes) for their invaluable insight.
I came home and immediately stopped at the LCBO to see what wines I could find from the Centre-Loire. This Domaine Quintin Coteaux du Giennois came out in a very recent Vintages release at the LCBO. It was so delicious, I went back for a case later that week.
Often, by the time I’ve discovered a wine I love in Vintages, it’s sold out. So follow my lead and get yourself more than one bottle asap. You’ll thank me later!
Happy wining!
